The corporate changes that have swept through Champagne in recent years seem sure to rob many old houses of their connection to the past. But one small jewel of a house is moving ever closer to its roots: Philipponnat. It is one of the last houses to be run by a member of its founding family. And Charles Philipponnat is a true Champenois, descended from winemakers, cellarmasters and growers dating back nearly 600 years.Champagne is in Charles’ blood, and this helps to explain Philipponnat’s recent resurgence. Twenty years ago, the house was known largely for its iconic Clos des Goisses—the majestic tête de cuvée made from Champagne’s single greatest vineyard. But under Charles, Philipponnat is gaining reverence for its entire portfolio of richly expressive Champagnes. Through great vision, technical skill and perfectionist attention to detail–and the pride of five centuries of tradition–Charles has created a range of Champagnes with few peers for quality and character. This ranges from the towering Clos des Goisses to the superb Royale Réserve and Reserve Rosé, two of the finest non-vintage brut Champagnes on the market today.